Is There Really a “Lowest-Tox” Hair Colour on the Market?
I get asked this constantly.
“Who has the cleanest colour?”
“Which brand is the lowest tox?”
“Is yours the safest available?”
And here is the honest answer.
There is no such thing as a completely non-toxic permanent hair colour.
All permanent oxidative colour requires chemistry. It must contain an alkaliser and reactive dye intermediates in order to lift and deposit pigment inside the cortex. Without that reaction, it simply would not work.
So when a company claims to be “the lowest tox colour on the market,” what does that actually mean?
Lowest compared to what?
Based on which ingredients?
Measured by which standard?
There is no global ranking system that scores hair colour from cleanest to most toxic. The term “low tox” is not regulated. It is not a scientific classification. It is a philosophy.
And that is where confusion often begins.
What a Safety Data Sheet Actually Tells You
You may hear claims such as “We are the lowest tox according to our MSDS.”
An SDS, Safety Data Sheet, is a workplace hazard communication document. It exists to outline:
• Handling precautions
• Fire and transport classification
• Acute exposure risks
• Storage requirements
• First aid measures
It does not list the full ingredient formula.
It does not assess long-term cumulative exposure.
It does not rank one brand against another in terms of “cleanliness.”
Two colour ranges can both comply with safety regulations and still have very different ingredient philosophies.
The most reliable way to understand what you are truly working with is to turn the box over and read the full ingredient list. Marketing claims and sales conversations only tell part of the story.
If low tox is genuinely important to you, don’t rely solely on what a rep tells you. Build the habit of reading the INCI for yourself. That’s where clarity lives.
Understanding the Core Chemistry of Permanent Hair Colour
All permanent oxidative hair colour must include:
• An alkaliser, ammonia or ethanolamine
• Dye intermediates, such as PPD, PTD or other aromatic amines
• Couplers, such as resorcinol or alternative molecules
• An oxidising agent, typically hydrogen peroxide
The real difference between brands is not whether they use chemistry. It is which chemistry they choose to remove or minimise.
For example:
Some brands remove ammonia to reduce strong fumes.
Some remove PPD, one of the most documented contact allergens in hair colour globally.
Some remove classic resorcinol, which has been studied for potential thyroid interaction in high exposure models.
Some reduce synthetic fragrance load in their overall range.
Each of these decisions reduces a certain type of exposure. None of them eliminate chemistry entirely.
A Note on Percentages and Marketing Claims
Another common marketing approach is percentage comparison.
“This colour only contains X percent.”
“Ours has a lower percentage than theirs.”
Here is what is important to understand. Not all shades contain the same ingredient percentages.
A level 3 permanent colour does not contain the same ratio of dye intermediates as a level 10. Darker shades typically contain higher concentrations of certain dye molecules because they require more depth and deposit. Lighter shades contain different proportions to achieve lift and tone.
Even within one brand, ingredient percentages vary across the shade range. So when someone claims they have “the lowest percentage,” you need context.
Lowest compared to which level?
Across which tonal family?
Measured under which conditions?
Toxicity is also not determined by percentage alone.
Dose matters.
Frequency of exposure matters.
Volatility matters.
Cumulative daily load matters.
A slightly lower percentage of one ingredient does not automatically make a product cleaner if other sensitising ingredients remain.
Reducing toxic load is more complex than comparing decimals. What Salon Owners Should Be Asking Instead
Instead of asking, “Who is the lowest tox?” try asking:
• Does this brand remove the ingredients I personally want eliminated from my salon?
• Are they transparent about what is still required for the chemistry to function?
• Do they rely heavily on synthetic fragrance?
• Are they clear about allergen potential?
• Does the brand align with my values around sustainability and ethics?
Low tox is not a competition. It is an alignment decision.
My Personal Perspective
In my own salon, I prioritise removing PPD and classic resorcinol from our main colour range. We do also have another colour range that does contain PPD but we use this in only certain circumstances. That is a personal and professional choice based on what I want to reduce in our environment long term.
That does not mean other brands are unsafe.
It does not mean one brand is “bad.”
It means I have chosen to reduce specific sensitising molecules that I personally feel most concerned about, especially for long-term exposure in a salon setting.
Another salon owner may prioritise something different. And that is okay.
Reducing Overall Toxic Load Is the Real Goal
To me, a low-tox salon is not defined by a single claim.
It is defined by cumulative reduction.
Reducing fume intensity.
Reducing major allergens where possible.
Reducing synthetic fragrance across retail and styling products.
Improving air quality and ventilation.
Using gloves consistently.
Making informed, transparent decisions rather than marketing-based decisions.
If a brand is genuinely minimising and being transparent about what remains necessary for performance, then we are all moving in a better direction.
This conversation should not be about proving who is the lowest tox.
It should be about raising literacy within our industry.
About understanding ingredient lists.
About knowing what PPD, PTD and resorcinol actually are.
About recognising that an SDS is not a ranking system.
About understanding that percentages alone do not define safety.
Low tox is not a trophy.
It is an ongoing commitment to reduce exposure where we can, align with our values, and create healthier working environments for both clients and hairdressers.
When we shift the conversation from competition to education, everyone wins
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LOW-TOX COLOUR CHEAT SHEET
What To Look For When Comparing Hair Colour Ranges
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ALKALISERS
These open the cuticle and allow colour to penetrate.
Common forms:
• Ammonia
• Ethanolamine
• Monoethanolamine (MEA)
What to know:
Ammonia creates stronger fumes but evaporates quickly.
Ethanolamine has less odour but can remain in the hair longer.
Neither is “toxin free.” They are functional chemistry.
Question to ask:
Which alkaliser does this brand use and why?
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PRIMARY DYE INTERMEDIATES
These create permanent pigment inside the hair shaft.
Most common:
• PPD – p-Phenylenediamine
• PTD – Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate
• p-Aminophenol
• m-Aminophenol
What to know:
PPD is one of the most documented hair dye allergens globally.
PTD is often used as an alternative but can still sensitise.
All oxidative colours use aromatic amines of some form.
Question to ask:
Does this brand remove PPD?
If so, what are they using instead?
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COUPLERS
These modify tone and colour depth.
Common examples:
• Resorcinol
• 4-Chlororesorcinol
• 2-Methylresorcinol
What to know:
Resorcinol has raised discussion in toxicology literature around thyroid interaction in high exposure models.
It is restricted and regulated in the EU.
Question to ask:
Has this brand removed classic resorcinol?
If so, what couplers are used instead?
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FRAGRANCE PROFILE
Look for:
• Parfum / Fragrance
• Limonene
• Linalool
• Citral
What to know:
Fragrance is often a mixture of multiple compounds under one word.
Essential oils still contain naturally occurring allergens.
Question to ask:
Does this brand rely heavily on fragrance?
Is the scent synthetic, essential oil based, or minimal?
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SURFACTANTS & BASE INGREDIENTS
Look for:
• Sodium Coco-Sulfate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
• Cocamide MEA
• Cocamidopropyl Betaine
What to know:
These help texture and spread the cream colour.
They are not the active dye system but can influence scalp comfort.
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THE BIGGER PICTURE
Low tox is not just the colour tube.
Consider:
• Air quality in your salon
• Gloves and PPE
• How often you are exposed daily
• Your retail and styling product fragrance load
• Ventilation
• Brand transparency
Reducing toxic load is cumulative.
It is not about perfection.
It is about reducing where possible.
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Now here’s why this is powerful.
When a rep says “We are the lowest tox on the market,” your team can calmly think:
Okay.
Do they remove PPD?
Do they remove resorcinol?
What alkaliser do they use?
How strong is the fragrance?
That shifts the conversation from marketing to literacy.
And it keeps your tone positive.
You are not attacking.
You are educating.
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SCIENTIFIC REFERENCES
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Thyssen JP, et al. “Contact dermatitis from hair dyes.” British Journal of Dermatology. 2007.
Discusses prevalence of PPD allergy and sensitisation rates. -
Uter W, et al. “Contact allergy to ingredients of hair cosmetics.” Contact Dermatitis. 2013.
Reviews common hair dye allergens including PPD and related amines. -
SCCS, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, European Commission.
Opinions on PPD and resorcinol safety thresholds and restrictions. -
Basketter DA, et al. “Paraphenylenediamine, an emerging allergen.”
Toxicology Review literature on sensitisation mechanisms. -
ECHA, European Chemicals Agency.
Hazard classifications and toxicology summaries for resorcinol. -
OSHA / Safe Work Australia guidelines on Safety Data Sheets.
Clarifies the purpose of SDS documents as hazard communication tools.
